Welcome to our Vintage Jewelry Glossary—a curated guide to the terms, styles, and designers that define decades of jewelry history.

AB  – Stands for Aurora Borealis, a shimmering iridescent coating applied to rhinestones and beads to reflect rainbow-like colors. Introduced by Swarovski in the 1950s, it became a signature feature in mid-century costume jewelry, especially in necklaces, earrings, and brooches. AB crystal jewelry is popular among collectors for its dazzling, light-catching effect.

Anne Klein  – Launched in 1968, Anne Klein fused ready-to-wear fashion with bold gold-tone chains and lion-head medallions.  Shop our vintage Anne Klein Jewelry Collection.

Art Deco  – Art Deco jewelry (circa 1920s–1935) is known for its geometric patterns, bold lines, and symmetry, often using materials like chrome, marcasite, enamel, and onyx. This period emphasized luxury and modernism, influenced by architecture and industrial design. Art Deco pieces are highly sought after for their timeless sophistication.

Art Nouveau  – Art Nouveau (circa 1890–1915) vintage jewelry is distinguished by organic, flowing lines, floral motifs, and nature-inspired themes. Jewelry from this era often features enamel work, semi-precious stones, and sensual female forms. Unlike the angular Art Deco style, Art Nouveau is romantic and naturalistic.

Austrian Crystal  – Renowned for its precision cut and brilliance, Austrian crystal—especially from Swarovski—is frequently used in vintage costume jewelry. These crystals are often embedded in earrings, necklaces, and brooches for high sparkle without fine gemstones. Austrian crystal vintage jewelry from the 1950s–1980s is especially collectible.

Bar Pin  – A narrow, elongated brooch often seen in Edwardian and Victorian jewelry, sometimes featuring seed pearls or filigree work. These are versatile and elegant, worn on lapels, dresses, or hats. They saw a resurgence in mid-century costume lines.

Bezel Setting  – A bezel setting is a type of stone setting where a metal rim surrounds the gemstone to hold it in place. This setting style was common in vintage rings and pendants and provides durability while offering a sleek, modernist look.

Bijoux  – French for “jewels,” bijoux is often used to describe fine or costume jewelry pieces made in France or influenced by French style. Look for this term on signatures such as “Givenchy Bijoux” or “Bijoux Cascio.”

Book Piece  – A “book piece” is a term for vintage jewelry documented in a collector’s reference guide or book.

Brooch  – Brooches are decorative pins that come in countless shapes, sizes, and styles—flowers, animals, abstract forms—and span all vintage eras. From sparkling rhinestone pieces to enamel figural designs, brooches are a staple of vintage costume jewelry.

Cabochon  – A cabochon is a gemstone or glass stone that is polished but not faceted, often dome-shaped. Common in vintage jewelry settings, especially Trifari and Napier pieces, cabochons can be opaque or translucent and come in colors like jade green, coral, or faux moonstone.

Choker  – Chokers are close-fitting necklaces that sit snugly around the neck, popular in the 1920s flapper era and again in the 1950s and 1990s. Vintage chokers often feature rhinestones, pearls, or velvet ribbon and are great for formal or layered looks.

Clamper Bracelet  – A clamper bracelet is a hinged bangle that opens on a spring, allowing it to clamp onto the wrist. Common in 1940s–1960s fashion jewelry, they often feature bold designs, enamel work, or large rhinestones.

Coro  – Coro was one of the largest and most prolific American costume jewelry companies, known for its ornate brooches, floral sets, and Coro Duettes (double clip brooches). Their jewelry is often marked “Coro,” “CoroCraft,” or “Vendome.”

Costume Jewelry  – Costume jewelry refers to decorative pieces made with non-precious materials like base metals, glass, rhinestones, and faux pearls. It rose in popularity during the 1920s and became a major fashion accessory through the 1990s. Vintage costume jewelry remains highly collectible for its design and affordability.

Cuff Bracelet  – Cuff bracelets are wide, open bangles that slip onto the wrist, often made from metal, resin, or enamel. Iconic vintage styles include Egyptian revival, mod 1960s, and 1980s glam pieces.

Demi Parure  – A demi parure is a matching jewelry set that includes two or more coordinating pieces, typically a necklace and earrings or brooch and earrings. These sets were especially popular in the 1950s.

Designer Signed  – “Designer signed” vintage jewelry refers to pieces marked with a maker’s name or logo, indicating authenticity and often higher value. Signatures like “Trifari,” “Napier,” “Dior,” or “Coro” are key search terms for collectors and vintage enthusiasts.

Dior  – Christian Dior vintage jewelry reflects the brand’s signature elegance, with collections often crafted by designers like Kramer or Mitchel Maer in the 1950s–70s. Look for pieces marked “Chr. Dior” or “Christian Dior,” featuring rhinestones, pearls, and gold-tone metal. Dior jewelry is highly collectible and retains strong resale value.  Shop our Christian Dior collection.

Estate Jewelry  – Estate jewelry refers to any previously owned jewelry, not necessarily antique or vintage.

Faux Pearl  – Faux pearls are imitation or simulated pearls used in costume jewelry made of coated glass or plastic. They were widely sold by brands like Trifari, Napier, and Miriam Haskell. Over time, real vintage faux pearls develop a warm, soft patina.

Figural Jewelry  – Figural jewelry features designs in the shape of animals, people, objects, or whimsical themes. From owl brooches to ballerina pins, figural pieces are highly collectible and often signed.

Filigree  – Filigree refers to delicate metalwork in lacy, scroll-like patterns, often seen in Art Deco, Edwardian, and revival-style jewelry. This ornate style is typically found in brooches, lockets, and other types of jewelry.

Florenza  – Florenza was an American costume jewelry company known for vintage revival-style jewelry, often using faux pearls, cameos, and antiqued gold-tone settings. Active from the late 1940s through 1981, their pieces are highly collectible and often marked.

Fob  – Originally designed as a chain or ornament attached to a pocket watch, fobs became popular in vintage fashion jewelry as charms or pendants. Look for Art Nouveau and Victorian revival styles in gold-tone or silver metals.

Givenchy  – Givenchy vintage jewelry is known for its luxe design, quality metalwork, and bold yet elegant styles. Pieces often feature crystal rhinestones, rope chains, and classic logo charms. Look for “Givenchy Paris New York” or “Givenchy” stamps.  Shop our Vintage Givenchy Jewelry Collection.

Gunmetal  – Gunmetal is a dark gray/black metallic finish used in vintage and modernist jewelry for a bold, edgy look. It contrasts beautifully with rhinestones or colored enamel and was especially popular in the 1980s.

Hallmark  – A hallmark is a stamped mark on jewelry that indicates metal content, origin, or manufacturer. In vintage costume jewelry, hallmarks often identify the brand (e.g., “Trifari,” “Napier”) and help determine authenticity and era. Some fine vintage pieces also include purity marks such as “14K” or “925.”

Hammered Metal  – Hammered metal jewelry features a textured surface created by hand or machine, offering a rustic, artisanal look. Common in modernist 1960s–70s designs and also in statement cuffs or earrings from designers like Napier.

Hand-Knotted  – Hand-knotted refers to strands of pearls or beads with individual knots tied between each piece.  If a strand is broken all beads will be secure.  This adds durability found in vintage faux pearl necklaces.

Hinged Bracelet  – A hinged bracelet has a clasp or hinge mechanism, allowing it to open and fit closely around the wrist. Found frequently in Art Deco, mid-century, and clamper styles, these bracelets offer both elegance and ease of wear.

Japanned  – Japanned refers to a black enamel-like finish applied to metal to give it a glossy, dark surface. Used in Victorian mourning jewelry and mid-century rhinestone pieces to enhance sparkle and create contrast.

Jelly Belly  – Jelly Belly is a term used for vintage figural jewelry featuring a clear or colored Lucite stone as the “belly” of an animal or insect—most famously by Trifari. These whimsical brooches are rare and extremely desirable among collectors.

Jewel-Tone  – Jewel-tone refers to richly saturated colors like ruby red, emerald green, sapphire blue, and amethyst purple. Vintage jewelry with jewel-tone rhinestones evokes luxury and glam, especially in 1950s–80s cocktail styles.

Joan Rivers  – Joan Rivers created a successful line of costume jewelry in the 1990s and early 2000s, often sold on QVC. Known for its quality, collectible themes (e.g., Fabergé-style eggs, bees), and classic styling, her pieces remain popular with vintage buyers.  Shop our Joan Rivers Jewelry Collection.

Juliana (D&E)  – Juliana jewelry, made by DeLizza & Elster in the 1960s, is known for its bold rhinestones, vivid colors, and five-link construction. These unsigned pieces are identified by design elements and are prized by collectors.

KJL (Kenneth Jay Lane)  – Kenneth Jay Lane (KJL) was a renowned costume jewelry designer celebrated for bold, statement pieces. From faux coral and oversized pearls to iconic animal cuffs, his vintage pieces are known for glamour and style.  Shop our KJL Jewelry Collection.

Kirk’s Folly  – Kirk’s Folly is a whimsical brand popular in the 1980s–1990s, known for fairy-tale themes, celestial motifs, and glitter-infused Lucite. Beloved for their imaginative flair, Kirk’s Folly pieces are often signed and collectible.

Lariat Necklace  – A lariat is a long necklace with an open-ended or looped design that can be tied, wrapped, or draped in various ways. Popular in 1920s flapper fashion and reemerging in the 1970s, lariats add dramatic flair.

Layered Chains  – Layered chains in vintage jewelry often combine multiple strands of gold- or silver-tone chain in varied textures or lengths. Common in Trifari, Monet, and Anne Klein designs from the 60s–80s, they create bold, stylish looks.

Lisner  – Lisner was a well-known American brand producing affordable yet stylish vintage jewelry in the 1950s–60s. Known for molded Lucite leaves, pastel rhinestones, and floral motifs, Lisner pieces are often signed and very collectible.

Lucite. – Lucite is a transparent plastic material used in vintage jewelry from the 1930s–70s. It appears in bangles, carved brooches, confetti pieces, and Jelly Belly styles. Lucite jewelry is lightweight and often brightly colored or glitter-filled.

Matte Finish  –A matte finish, also sometimes called satin, in vintage jewelry refers to a non-reflective surface that creates a soft, understated look. It was commonly used in 1960s–1980s pieces, especially in gold- or silver-tone designs by Monet and Napier. Matte textures offer a contrast to shiny rhinestones and create modern, minimalist appeal.

Mid-Century Modern  – Mid-century modern (MCM) jewelry (circa 1945–1965) reflects the sleek, clean lines of the broader design movement. Look for minimalist shapes, futuristic motifs, and atomic-era inspirations in brooches, bracelets, and clip earrings.

Milk Glass  – Milk glass jewelry features opaque white glass stones, often molded or cabochon-shaped, set in gold- or silver-tone metal. Popular from the 1940s–1960s, these pieces have a soft, glowing effect and were used by brands like Weiss and West Germany.

Modernist  – Modernist jewelry, often from the 1950s–1970s, embraces abstract, sculptural forms and experimental materials. Common in Scandinavian and American studio pieces, this style overlaps with brutalist and minimalist designs.

Monet  – Monet is a classic American costume jewelry brand, known for its high-quality gold and silver-tone pieces, clip-on earrings, and chains. Founded in the 1930s, Monet jewelry is typically signed and prized for its timeless, wearable elegance.  Shop our Monet Vintage Jewelry Collection.

Mosaic Jewelry  –.Mosaic jewelry incorporates tiny pieces of colored glass or stone to form decorative images, often floral or scenic. Micro mosaic pieces from Italy and larger mosaic inlays were especially popular in the Victorian era and mid-century souvenir jewelry.

Napier  – Napier is known for bold, elegant vintage jewelry from the 1940s–1980s, ranging from modernist pieces to figural and textured styles. Their gold and silver-tone earrings, statement necklaces, and chunky bracelets are well-crafted and often signed.  Shop our Napier Vintage Jewelry Collection.

Necklace Extender  –.A necklace extender is an additional chain or link that lengthens a necklace. Many vintage necklaces include adjustable extenders, often finished with a bead or charm. These allow for versatile styling and layered looks.

Open-Back Stone  – An open-back stone setting allows light to pass through the back of a rhinestone or glass gem, increasing sparkle. This feature is common in higher-quality vintage costume jewelry, especially in earrings and brooches.

Parure  – A parure is a full set of matching jewelry—often including necklace, earrings, bracelet, and brooch. Vintage parures were a sign of luxury and coordination, especially popular in mid-century fashion.

Pavé  – Pavé (from the French “paved”) is a technique where small rhinestones or crystals are set closely together, creating a glittering, surface-covered effect. Found in both fine and costume vintage jewelry, pavé adds elegance and shimmer to brooches and earrings.

Pear-Shaped  – Pear-shaped stones have a teardrop silhouette and are frequently seen in vintage earrings and pendants. These were especially popular in 1950s glamour styles and are still prized today for their flattering, feminine shape.

Pendant  – A pendant is a decorative element that hangs from a necklace or chain. Vintage pendants vary widely, from lockets and cameos to enamel medallions and figural charms. They’re often focal points of statement pieces.

Plastic  – Vintage plastic jewelry includes materials like Bakelite, Lucite, and celluloid. These lightweight, colorful pieces were mass-produced and remain collectible for their bold styles and nostalgic charm.

Prong Setting  – A prong setting holds a stone in place with metal “claws,” allowing light to pass through and maximize sparkle. This is a sign of quality and is a common setting in vintage rhinestone jewelry.

Poured Glass  – Poured glass is a jewelry technique where molten glass is poured into a mold or setting, creating a smooth, enamel-like surface. This method was used by French makers like Gripoix and copied in vintage costume jewelry with vibrant results.

Rhinestones  – Rhinestones are sparkling glass or crystal stones used in vintage costume jewelry to mimic diamonds and other gemstones.

Rivoli Stone  – A rivoli is a round, highly faceted crystal or glass stone with a pointed back and no flat table, producing dazzling light effects. Popular in mid-century and 1980s jewelry, especially in earrings and pendants.

Rope Chain  – Rope chains feature twisted links resembling a rope. These chains are classic, durable, and often found in vintage necklaces from Monet, Napier, and Givenchy.

Runway Jewelry  – Runway jewelry refers to bold, high-impact statement pieces designed for fashion shows. Often oversized and theatrical, vintage runway jewelry includes elaborate earrings, dramatic cuffs, and layered necklaces by designers like Kenneth Jay Lane and Dior.

Sautoir  – A sautoir is a long, often tassel-ended necklace that was especially popular during the Art Deco era. These versatile pieces can be worn draped or looped and were revived in the 1960s and 70s.

Set  – A jewelry set includes coordinated pieces like a matching necklace and earrings or a brooch and bracelet. Sets increase perceived value and appeal to collectors looking for complete vintage ensembles.

Signed  – A signed piece includes a maker’s mark or logo stamped somewhere on the item, such as the clasp or back of a brooch. Brands like Trifari, Monet, and Napier consistently signed their work, which adds authenticity and collector appeal.

Simulated Gemstone – Simulated gemstones are man-made materials meant to mimic the appearance of real stones like emeralds, rubies, or sapphires. Common in vintage costume jewelry, especially in cocktail rings and formal sets.

Snake Chain – Snake chains are sleek, tubular chains that resemble a snake’s skin and are flexible with a smooth finish. These appear in 1970s and 1980s gold-tone necklaces and chokers.

Spring Ring Clasp. –.A spring ring clasp is a circular closure mechanism that opens with a small internal spring. Widely used in vintage necklaces and bracelets, especially from the 1940s onward.

St. John  – St. John is a designer known for its classic, elegant clothing and coordinating jewelry. Vintage St. John jewelry is often gold-tone, featuring chains, medallions, and logo charms, typically signed.  Shop our vintage St. John Jewelry Collection.

Statement Jewelry  – Statement jewelry refers to bold, eye-catching pieces that dominate an outfit—like oversized earrings, chunky necklaces, or dramatic cuffs. Often seen in 1980s vintage styles or modernist designs.

Swarovski  – Swarovski is an Austrian crystal maker known for producing high-quality rhinestones used in vintage costume jewelry. Swarovski stones were often used by designers like Weiss, Dior, and Eisenberg for their unmatched brilliance.  Swarovski jewelry made for the US marked in the 1980s was marked SAL.  Shop our Swarovski Vintage Jewelry Collection.

Tassel  – Tassels are decorative hanging elements made of chains, threads, or beads, used in necklaces and earrings to add movement and flair. Tassels appeared in Art Deco sautoirs, 1970s boho jewelry, and 1980s runway pieces.

Thermoset  – Thermoset plastic is a molded material used in vintage jewelry, especially in the 1950s–60s. It appears in opaque pastel or moonglow finishes and was popular in Lisner and Coro sets. Often used for leaf or petal-shaped cabochons.

Three-Strand Necklace  – A three-strand necklace features three coordinated strands of beads, pearls, or chains, often graduated in length. Popular in mid-century jewelry for its elegant, dimensional look.

Trifari  – Trifari is one of the most iconic names in American costume jewelry, celebrated for its elegant designs and quality materials. Founded in the early 1900s and later led by designer Alfred Philippe, Trifari produced rhinestone, enamel, and faux pearl pieces often marked “Trifari,” “Crown Trifari,” or “TKF.”  Shop our Vintage Trifari Jewelry Collection.

Unsigned or Unmarked – Unsigned vintage jewelry refers to pieces not marked by a brand, yet often of high quality. Many pre-1950s pieces and some from boutique makers fall in this category. Unsigned doesn’t mean less desirable—look for craftsmanship and materials.

Vendome  – Vendome was a high-end line by Coro, known for bold and luxurious mid-century jewelry. Vendome pieces feature high-quality crystals, glass beads, and intricate beadwork, often signed in script.

Victorian Revival  – Victorian Revival jewelry mimics styles from the 19th century but was made in the early to mid-20th century. Common features include cameos, lockets, hearts, and ornate filigree in gold-tone metals.

Waterfall Necklace  – Waterfall necklaces feature cascading layers of chains, beads, or rhinestones that drape dramatically around the neck. This design was especially popular in the 1950s and again in 1980s evening wear.

Whiting & Davis  – Whiting & Davis is renowned for metal mesh accessories, including purses, bracelets, and statement necklaces. Vintage jewelry from this brand often features slinky mesh, cameos, or Art Deco revival styles.

Y2K Jewelry  – Y2K jewelry refers to fashion jewelry styles from the late 1990s to early 2000s, characterized by sparkles, playful motifs, and colorful plastics. Think chokers, jelly bracelets, and rhinestone charms.